Friday, June 15th, 2007

Two weeks on a motorcycle. Allen and the early group have been on the road for two weeks, Frank and I for 10 days. I don't think people that don't love bikes understand this. It is a passion, it has to be. Otherwise there would be way too many excuses to wake up and say "I don't want to take that beating today". The wind and elements can wear you down as does the enormity of this country. No matter how far you go, there seems to be so much farther to go. We were all getting pretty worn down. The two days off really charged everyone's batteries and we were anxious to get on the road. There is something about the smells and sensations of the ride that reminds you of why this is such a thrill. It has been said many times before: It's not about the destination, it's about the ride. How true.

We picked up our bikes yesterday with fresh tires, oil, and John's new chain and sprocket. Frank started out with a burned out turn signal which gave him problems all day. He also had a spring on the shifter break and it makes shifting harder, but he is committed: To the coast!

Todays ride started warm and clear. We were able to unplug our vests and ride without hand warmers for the first time in days. About a hundred miles north of Anchorage we started seeing this white thing through the trees from time to time. At first I thought it was clouds but as we got closer we saw that it was Mount Mckinley. Absolutely stunning. There are times in your life when you see something and you know when you see it that it is something special that will last a lifetime. Mount Mckinley is seldom clear of clouds and usually so shrouded that you don't even know where it is. Today when we first saw it, it was clear and magnificent. 'Bold' is the word that comes to mind. This is a special place and if you ever get chance to see it, by all means do. As we got closer some clouds started coming in and started to obscure it, but for a moment it was all there, totally covered in snow and thrusting up into a blue sky that was made to retreat. No pictures do it justice (my camera batteries went dead so all of these pictures are by Frank). Wow, what a thrill.

As we rode up today and I was enjoying the good weather and beautiful scenery I thought back to some of what we've been through to get here. I don't know if adversity is put before us to test our determination, or to make us appreciate the reward more, or both. Today was one of those "This is why we do this" days and we're all feeling pretty jazzed.

Todays destination is Fairbanks, about 310 miles north of Anchorage. Anchorage has about 200,000 people and Fairbanks has about 80,000. The last time I was in Fairbanks (about 3 years ago) we came in by train and couldn't get around much on foot so were not very impressed. First impressions can be wrong and mine were. The city is really pretty big, has lots of amenities and best of all, some very interesting history. The River Walk is interesting and they have one of the Best Italian Restaurants that I have ever eaten at: Gambardella's. As we arrived the rain started, and later came down in buckets.

We did not go into Denali park as we don't have the time. You are not allowed to drive in the park and must ride buses on tours. We had to pass on the tours but the area around the park is very impressive. We're getting to a point north where any area of greater altitude is either bare or grass and brush only. The valleys and hills are covered with spruce and a birch tree I think. Sort of a grey leafed aspen tree. Everything is green except the rock faces of the mountains which gives a nice contrast. Whenever you stop, flies and mosquitos descend on you. Camping up here must be a real challenge.

As our group sat and relived today's ride I thought about how fortunate we are. It's pretty hard to get 6 people together that can stand each other for as long as we do and still stay friends. The normal friction of personal idiosyncracies can get pretty tiresome. When you mix with it the stresses of a long ride, you could get some pretty raw nerves. Somehow this group just works and really compliments the experience. John and Allen will carry the conversation when the rest of us don't want to, and we all respect each other so much that there aren't any pressures to do something you don't want to, or judging when one of us decides to do something a little different. Oh and no one gets away with taking themselves to seriously. Start that and you become a great target. Probably the most important is the sense of humor that we all share.

The pictures are:

The motorcyclist and passenger beside the road are Allen and Carol. If you zoom in you can see Mt Mckinley in the distance.

The next is Frank and I with Mt Mckinley in the distance

The next is outside Denali Park

The next one is Hayne Ellis, with the vest wearing glasses.

The next one is John Graves.

Tomorrow we start up the haul road to Coldfoot, 250 miles, 80 of which is dirt (or mud, depending on how much rain they have received). Unsure about internet coverage there and in Prudhoe Bay, so it might be a bit before I can post again.